Track Cleaning with LPS-1, AKA "Command Control Magic"
As posted to rec.model.railroad in June, 1990.

I have received enough email about the Magic Track Cleaning Potion to
warrant a tutorial on the use of the substance.
First, some background on my dirt problem. I used to clean the track
with a Bright Boy before operating and things would work OK for about
1/2 hour, then engines would start acting up. I tried cleaning the
engine wheels halfway through an operating session by placing a thin
cloth on the rails, wetting it with denatured alcohol and holding the
engine on the wet spot with the power on. This worked for about 10
more minutes. Another cleaning would reveal more crud. What I figured
out was that after 10 years of use, my car wheels had a lot of crud
built up and were transferring the crud back to the track.
Before I heard about LPS-1, I decided to bite the bullet and clean ALL
my car wheels (that's 1200 axles worth!). Since this was SOOO much
fun, it took 9 months of tedious on and off work sessions with
friends. Just before we finished, Mark Paris of TinyTronics told me
about LPS-1, so I decided to try it.
I went through a few steps before using it, the first being to test it
on a test loop before I screwed up 1000' feet of track on my layout.
Also, I wanted to do an experiment to verify my hypothesis about
wheels transferring dirt to the track.
I set up an oval with new Atlas FlexTrack to run a train on and
cleaned the new track with alcohol (I didn't use a Bright Boy, because
I now suspect that the binder used in them is what causes the wheel
crud and because they cause scratches on the railhead that can collect
dirt). I cleaned the wheels on my best running engine and ran it
continuously for 1/2 hour with no problems. After cleaning the track
and engine wheels again, I got six cars with dirty wheels and pulled
them around. Within ten minutes, the engine was stalling and bucking!
Just to double check, I again cleaned the track and engine wheels
(getting lots of black crud) and pulled some cars with clean wheels
around for 1/2 hour with no problems.
Next I applied LPS-1 to the track. I used a 2" long piece of 1/2"
square balsa wood to apply it to the track. I just sprayed a little on
the wood (which soaked it up) and wiped it on the track. While the
track was wet, I ran the engine over it to get some on the engine
wheels, then took the engine off so the track and wheels could dry.
After a half hour, I tried the test again with the dirty wheels. I
pulled them around for an hour with no problems! What surprised me was
I could actually see black gunk on the track (I guess it was coming
off the wheels somehow) and the engine still ran great!. It seemed
impervious to dirt!
Convinced, I applied it to my layout. First I thoroughly cleaned the
track with electrical contact cleaner, again spraying the cleaner on a
piece of balsa and wiping the track with it. The balsa works great,
since it absorbs the cleaner and stays wet and it doesn't get caught
on switch points and track joints like cloth does. I'm not sure if
this cleaning step was necessary, but after spending so much time
cleaning wheels, I didn't want to skimp. I used a track cleaning car
(a piece of Masonite suspended below a box car) to clean tunnels and
hard to reach areas by pushing it with an engine. Needless to say, I
used a lot of pieces of wood (the track was filthy!). After cleaning
it, I applied the LPS-1 using balsa and the track cleaning car. I also
cleaned and coated all my engine wheels.
The next operating session (August, 1989) went beautifully. Every
engine ran like clockwork. I have been operating twice a month since
then and have reapplied LPS-1 once (for no special reason). Before a
session I will push the track cleaning car over the layout to remove
any dust that has settled. I use a clean piece of balsa to wipe dust
off sidings (dust still settles on the track; LPS-1 doesn't *repel*
dust). If I don't wipe the dust off, the engines will cough a little
until the dust gets pushed out of the way.
LPS-1 Greaseless Lubricant is a product made by Holt Lloyd Corp.
(Tucker, GA and Los Angeles, CA) and is designed for use on electrical
contacts. They also make LPS-2 General Purpose Lubricant and LPS-3
Heavy Duty Rust Inhibitor, neither of which are suitable for our
purposes.
LPS-1 has a bizarre characteristic: it is normally non-conductive but
in the presence of an electric field or with metal to metal contact,
it becomes highly conductive. Sounds sort of like what happens with
locomotive wheels and the track, eh? It's been described as "a long
polymer kind of thing" (don't ask me what that means, ask a chemist).
It goes on wet and drys in about 30 minutes. It won't attract dust. It
smells a lot like WD-40. It reduces traction a tad (I would
guess-timate about 10%). A friend who does N-scale, Bill Kepner, was
having terrible contact problems after ballasting, tried LPS-1 and is
now a true believer.
LPS-1 comes in an 11 oz. spray can for $4.19. Such a deal. One can
will last 3 or 4 lifetimes.
I have found LPS-1 at Ace Hardware Stores. Most stores don't stock it,
but can order it for you. A nice store will order a case and sell you
a can. A nasty store will order a case Just-For-You (sell the rest to
your friends).
Notes on the long term usage of LPS-1
I posted the original LPS-1 "Magic Track Cleaner Potion" article on 28
June, 1990. I'm still using it on the same layout and have observed
some long term effects that LPS-1 devotees might be interested in.
Observation #1: There are no long term adverse effects!
I have been using LPS-1 ever since I wrote the original article. I was
having problems with an ancient PMP-112 command control system at that
time and LPS-1 cured the most serious of the problems, dirty track. My
observation at that time was that the track still got dirty (the black
crud from wheels still gets left on the track) but the dirt+LPS does
not seem to cause problems.
I have since moved to CVP's Railcommand system and a few of my
operating buddies are using DCC systems. LPS-1 helps both these newer
systems just as it did the old crufty system.
Never in 12 years of operating (two sessions per month, 9 months per
year) has LPS caused any problems with track, scenery, engines,
rolling stock, electronics or my personal health. Awesome stuff!
Observation #2: An 11 oz can is MORE than a lifetime supply
After 12 years of consistent use, I have used up 2.5 oz of the
original 11 oz. A can goes a LONG way. I might put a fresh coat on
every couple of months, if I'm in the mood.
I also use it on a F. Skidmore "Gumbuster" to clean engine wheels if
they seem to be collecting excess crud.
Observation #3: You don't want to use the same can for 12 years no
matter how much you have left
After all this glowing good news, there is a dark lining. I've been
doing some major rebuilding on the layout recently with plenty of
dust, etc. With the excitement of new construction, I've been slacking
off on general maintenance and we've been experiencing problems with
the equipment. To compensate for these problems, I've been slathering
on LPS-1. This has been going on for about a year.
To my dismay, the magic potion didn't seem to be working very well
anymore. I was beginning to wonder if the electronics was starting to
act up (seems unlikely), or if engines needed some maintenance (I
haven't done so much as lube the gearboxes in a very long time - shame
on me) or what.
I went through a phase recently where I thought there was a problem
with the LPS. I was imagining strange scenarios where the flux cleaner
I used to "remove" old LPS before adding new LPS was causing a strange
reaction and creating a new gunk. I also use denatured alcohol to
clean engine wheels and perhaps something was going on there.
The layout was running worse and worse and my operating crew was
getting crabby. Desperate measures were needed. One of the other
big-time operators in the area, Doug Geiger, swears by clean track
with no additives. He cleans rails once a month or so with a "Perfect"
brand abrasive block (much gentler than a Bright Boy) and keeps his
engine wheels clean. I decided to emulate him and I started on a quest
for pristine track.
I had noticed the Gumbuster in an MR add and sent for one to help
clean engine wheels also. I was using a piece of cloth soaked with
alcohol laid across the rails to clean the engines and I thought I
could use a more professional piece of gear (it works well). The
Skidmore website also listed info on track cleaning and I also tried
some of their techniques and potions.
They include Goo-Gone with the Gumbuster. I tried using that on a
balsa block to clean a section of track. A lot of "black crud" was
picked up. I did it over and over and still got black crud (or at
least, the balsa kept turning black). Finally I decided to try a
BrightBoy first and then GooGone. The balsa still turned black. Hmmm.
Then BrightBoy again and some alcohol. No more black. Then GooGone
again and the balsa turned black. This leads me to conclude that
GooGone was reacting with the balsa and making it black. Don't use
GooGone as a track cleaner (it's known to also leave a residue that
can cause problems).
Moving on, I used an abrasive block and alcohol on a section of track
and convinced myself the track was clean. I cleaned the wheels of an
engine known to be a bad performer with alcohol on the Gumbuster and
ran it around. A little jerky but better. I also tried some of the
Aero Locomotive Works ACT-6000 track cleaner from Skidmore. It is also
supposed to improve conductivity, much like LPS. I tried the engine
again and it didn't run very well.
OK, put the potions away and go with clean track.
I cleaned the whole layout with abrasive blocks and alcohol and got
everything sparkling. I also cleaned all the engine wheels (36 sets).
What a tedious chore! I did not clean the wheels of the 350 pieces of
rolling stock. That takes way too long.
The next operating session ran pretty good at the beginning. But
towards the middle of the cycle, things started acting up. We
recleaned the affected engines and got tons of crud!. If you read the
LPS original story, these are exactly the same symptoms I was
experiencing in 1990. Hypothesis: dirty car wheels depositing crud as
they ran around. Well, I had solved this problem once before, hadn't I?
And then the light bulb lit. I've had the can of LPS for 12 years. I
wonder if it had a shelf life? I wrote to tech support at LPSLabs.com
and got the following reply:
LPS 1 produces a non-oily non-dust attracting light duty film. It is
used for guns, locks, electronics, etc. It should be ideal for model
trains. Friction will wear it off. It has a shelf life of two years
but will normally last longer than that. However ten years is asking a
lot of a product and container. If you would get a new can your
performance should return to normal. Ace Hardware, TruValue Hardware,
and W.W. Grainger should have LPS 1.
I figured Grainger would have the freshest stock so I ran down and got
a new can ($6.50). I applied it before the next operating session and,
miracles of miracles, it cured all the problems. Just like the first
time. We just had a session April 9, 2002 and everything ran superbly.
All the local LPS fans have also purchased new cans since they bought
theirs quite a few years ago, also.
So, if you use LPS-1 and like it, don't be a nickle-nose and keep the
same can for 12 years!